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Known problems by model

Tesla Model 3 (2017–2021): what actually fails

The documented failure patterns on used Tesla Model 3s — the mileage window where each shows up, and what the repair typically costs at an independent shop. This is the same data NoLemon's Brief checks against every VIN.

Tesla Model 3
PHOTO: MARIORDO (MARIO ROBERTO DURÁN ORTIZ) · CC BY-SA 4.0 · WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
2017–2019 TYPICAL 20k–120k MI $300–$1,000

Front suspension / control arm failure

Early cars break front fore links and wear out upper control arms; complaints include arms separating at speed. Drive slowly over bumps with the windows down and listen for clunks or creaks from the front end. Parts are cheap by Tesla standards, and a documented replacement with updated parts resolves the risk.

BEFORE YOU BUY
Ask for repair records covering this item. If it hasn't been addressed and the car is in or near the mileage window, price the $300–$1,000 repair into your offer — or make it the seller's problem.
2017–2021 TYPICAL 0k–200k MI $85–$500

12V battery dies with no warning — car goes dead

Early Model 3s use a small lead-acid 12V battery that runs the doors, screen, and computer. It often fails suddenly with little or no warning, and when it does the whole car can go dead — you may not be able to open the doors, wake the screen, or drive, even with a full main battery. At the viewing, ask when the 12V was last replaced and watch for a '12V battery needs service' alert. Part plus labor at Tesla runs about $200-$500; a DIY battery is under $100.

BEFORE YOU BUY
Ask for repair records covering this item. If it hasn't been addressed and the car is in or near the mileage window, price the $85–$500 repair into your offer — or make it the seller's problem.

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